Why I photograph everyone differently!
Everyone is unique; we may have a twin, but even then, siblings differ, as their close relatives can tell.
As a portrait photographer, I try to treat each person I photograph slightly differently, and that I hope is what makes my approach different than many other photographers.
I am not saying I’m right and they are wrong; photography should not have rules, but unless the brief is that all the shots have to match exactly, for say a passport photograph, I try to understand the person’s best features, their best side, something most of us have.
Most people shall naturally present themselves to the camera with their best side dominant; it is what they do every time they look into the mirror.
So I try early on to see what the opposite is like, just to confirm that they do have a best side.
It is subjective of course as are so many things that we see in ourselves and in others. Fashion also dictates what is attractive or not.
Full lips were often something that people would be concerned about, ladies even applying lipstick over a smaller section of the mouth; currently, the plump, full lip is seen as a feature of beauty and many use treatments to make them even more pronounced or as an old expression I remember as ‘bee-stung lips’.
What ever someone looks like, I try to ensure they look their best.
Why? I want to represent the subject in a positive way, especially if I have been commissioned to produce a headshot or brand portrait for social media and marketing.
I try to light ‘the subject ’, which is a strange expression; however, it is accurate. Photography is essentially about capturing light and understanding what it does to a subject. It’s that that makes the difference: is it subjective for them, or is it my idea of what is the best version of them?
If the job in hand is just a headshot for linkedin and the company website, I shall often start from a base point with a uniform lighting, but depending of their gender, age and other physical traits, I shall tweak the lighting, I shall also tweak the exposure and lighting balance, that is how much the lights on the background or hair detail.
I may start with usually three heads, but add or subtract one or two. Some more complex lighting can have 7 individual lights, hitting small details, bouncing onto the underside of a face to get detail in the shadows, or sometimes to increase shadow, often to ensure the area under a subject’s chin is dark, without detail, hiding unnecessary details in a neck, for instance.
Even when the person is just one of many that are for a website that has to reflect a uniform look, I shall not just stick to a lighting format. Why, well as I said everyone is unique. However, the background and the eye line for each subject should be uniform or appear close enough.
When all the images are put together, the background unifies them, but with closer inspection, each shall have a slightly different light balance.
One main difference is gender, not been sexist, but society has expectations, and a female is going to look differently to a man, Assuming the subjects are ready to be photographed, they shall have groomed, put on makeup, as they would when the go out into the world.
I am reflecting those differences and may in fact enhance the difference, I would usually light a female with a more even soft light, and a man would possibly have a cross light to show more texture, his facial hair and more ‘rugged’ features.
A wise man said
There is nothing as simple or more complex than a portrait and the same can be said about a headshot because that is what it is.
Even the most simple image is laden with information, the reader (the viewer) may not be aware, but with so much about communication it is very complex, we see so much information that we take in subconsciously.
If the image is against a plain white background, it has an implication that this is about a company or formal images, a security or identity image, in black and white is take sit into a realm of time, is is a contemporary image or much older, The image can be interpreted because of its context, ie where you see it, often the location is the dominant factor in the communication, but take it out of the context and you see it with limited information.
Still, I digress, as Visual communication is not what people think about when they commission a headshot; to most, it is a picture they need, as that is what is done or they are asked to supply..
Backgrounds are often an unseen aspect of a portrait, but the subject is impacted by what is behind them. A photographers job is to control what you see, so choosing the background is a critical issue, that is where I try to make a positive impact, by using a variety of backgrounds, the colour, or complexity. A brand may have a colour it wants to feature, or complement the website or context it is seen in. A shade shall contrast or not with the skin tone of the subject; here is where the subtle lighting changes become important. Even a neutral grey can be warm or cool, light or dark; each can complement or clash with the subject. All these considerations are part of the photography process, but many photographers and most subjects are unaware of these issues.
When it comes to lighting the head and it becomes even more complicated, but before that , where is the camera, in relation to the subject?
The convention when taking a headshot, is informed by convention, guide lines that the passport office has issued, a camera is at eye level, or just below, the distance from the subject is often determined by the limitation of the location, historically a ‘normal’ lens would be used and that would make to subject less than a metre away from the camera, this is not a flattering distance, this is due to Physics, the closer you get to someone the larger their nose becomes in relation to the rest of their face, often called ‘wide angle effect’ it is the reality of what is recored because what is near looks larger. So most photographers who have an alternative lens use a ‘long’ lens, one that allows the face to fill the frame from a distance; many use an 85mm or 90mm on an FX (full-frame sensor, similar to the 35mm film equivalent or better still a 100mm plus . The longer the lens, the further the subject can be away, and the proportions we think of as perfect appear to work as the distance from the person’s face is more uniform, as it is all a distance away from the camera.
When the subject is in-front of the camera, with an appropriate background, a long portrait lens on the camera, then there is the matter of the all important lighting.
Lighting can make or break a portrait; even if all the elements are in place, an unsupportive lighting setup can ruin the end result.
This is where I hope I make a big difference, although the lights needed for this type of photography are easy found, the use of them is something that is subjective, it is what changes for so many different photographers , but can look very much the same. The one or two front lights often called ‘Key’ lights can be placed between the subject and the photographer, in an almost infinite variety of combinations, as are also the one or more background lights, usually illuminating the background, but also lighting the back of the subject.
So what lights do I use?
All of the above and a lot more, including the natural light, the reflected light on a reflector and much more. Why ? Because everyone is unique, and it is the lighting that probably, more than most things, shall enhance or destroy a portrait.
The difference a few centimetres that a light is located in relation to a subject can make a massive change in the look, it is so hard to describe, but the length of a shadow can make or break an image,
If the nose casts a shadow onto the skin about the mouth, a mini moustache can appear to be there, bad with most subjects but a disaster when it happens to a politician with dark hair ?
If the lighting that is designed to enhance the hair and provide some detail is too ‘hot’ (overexposed) even with post production details are difficult to replicate and a 70’s backlight effect can result.
So all these considerations are part of the process that a photographer has to consider, the unique person that is photographed should be treated as unique, lit carefully . Oh and then there is the directing, the poses . But I shall it as that.
Unique people are that and deserve a unique photograph to represent them .